BMG are a pretty location-savvy group, staking their flags in most of Paris’ trendy neighbourhoods. So when I read about Mamma Primi in the hip area of the Batignolles, I obviously needed to visit the damn thing three times during my stay and slowly order everything off the menu. As you do.
My Parisian friends used to take me drinking on Rue des Dames ten years ago. It was a very different place back then, as it was known as a sure-fire destination to score hash (probably the only reason my friends liked it). Things have changed a lot since then. These days on Rue des Dames, the green you’re more likely to find is part of the the ornate vine-laden terraces of restaurants like Mamma Primmi.
I begin with an Aperol Spritz, but instantly become envious of my wife’s Mango Mule. You guessed it, a Moscow Mule with mango. It is way better than you think it will be. Even if you think it will be great.
We kick things off with some Arancino Siciliano at 9 euros. It’s the thought that counts here, with the garnish and Straccitella proving perfect accompaniments to lift the flavour and aesthetics of often-bland balls of rice.
The Caramelle Di Riocco (14) nestles itself coyly on the table, and presents like a Renoir painting. Can we eat this? Should we eat this? Parcels of Rabbit, Cream of Fennel, Olives and Artichoke Chips topped with Parmigiano. *Rolls eyes* Why didn’t I think of that?
The Fameuse Pate a la Truffe (18) is indeed famous, and available at other restaurants, but Mamma Primi are the most generous in the sauce department, so if you’re coming to Paris for this Pasta, have it here.
While waiting for the Burrata Pesto Pizza (14), we begin to feel full and wonder whether ordering a pizza was a wise idea. The kitchen apologises for the long wait by sending us out a free Burrata, so we end up kind-of chewing it over.
Turns out, we were too full; but ordering the Pizza was still a shrewd move. I mean honestly, when a Pizza looks like this, you make room right?
Yes you do. With its predictably perfect base, drenched in Fior di Latte slash Burrata gizzards and featuring classy toppings of Sweet Tomatoes Confites and Shaved Almonds, the Pesto here almost takes a back seat. This type of Pizza is best eaten silent between two people exchanging furious glances from time to time.
Mamma Primi certainly has the aesthetic, service and wares down pat. I’m confident to crown them ‘Queen of the Mammas’, as I’m sure you will too, when you go there to eat: everything.
71 Rue des Dames
75017
Paris